New York pizza really is a cut above. We tried six Brooklyn slice shops that prove it.
“That’s like gold in a bottle,” managing partner Jeff Todd says of the orange-tinted sauce spiked with clear liquor, which could be seen as a metaphorical nod to the neighborhood presence of Russian families like his own.
Since 1965, he had built a reputation as a pizza titan with meticulous standards. He didn’t acquiesce to requests. He created the best pizza he could imagine and labored over it himself, even if it meant some customers had to wait two hours to eat. When customers say the pizza tastes the same, “that’s the greatest feeling in the world,” Harry DeMarco said.
The frank-but-friendly pizzamaker has plenty of opinions about what makes a good slice. It can’t be white on the bottom, it has to be crisp. Sicilian slices should have a long-simmered Sunday sauce. There shouldn’t be globs of cheese. He prefers “of-season” Italian tomatoes, opened within a year of canning, from Mutti or Sclafani. He says he still does things the way his father did them since the shop opened in 1973.
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