Highly Recommend: By Tae for perfect handrolls, nigiri, miso soup, and soft tofu.
means taste, and the translation is ‘handmade taste’ or ‘taste of the hands.’ 손맛 is when you see an old Korean lady macerating cabbage to make kimchi; herEvery bite you’ll eat at By Tae bears the imprimatur of Hong’s hands, and I mean that in the most appetizing way possible. It works like this: You show up to the counter at 11:30 a.m. and scribble your name on the sign-up sheet for one of three seatings.
But on my visit, the meal started with soft tofu heaped with fresh pea shoots, two perfect bites of nigiri, and a paper cup of miso soup—before the succession of nori-wrapped handrolls bursting with scallops and pop-y salmon roe began. Hong seemed to know most of the other folks seated at the counter, bantering with some bros from the upstairs co-working space while seemingly simultaneously handling the rice, slicing the day’s fish, and ringing up to-go bento-box orders.
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