The ThomBrowne pre-fall 2023 menswear collection is here. See every look:
The Scarlet Letter, Moby Dick
was one of the great works of literature that emerged from the United States in the mid-19th Century. Interestingly it only became acclaimed in the century that followed, hailed as a disruptive amalgam of multiple forms of discourse ranging from the Homeric to the Shakespearean that served to recast the epic in novel form. Reading this lookbook, it hit you that Thom Browne’s disruptive amalgam of menswear’s discourses—specifically “American” ones—has been similarly transformational.
Hence the handsome duckboots and Weejun-esque moccasin boots, the boating blazers and the whale or yacht embroidered chinos. Patchworked Franken-suiting and skirts echoed prep-staple mashed madras shirting. There were some sneakers, more Ivy League than prep, that recalled the earliest types of the form.
Other discourses navigated included plaid tweeds and woolens fashioned into twinsets and pencil skirts as well as nautically-touched tailoring, which like everything here was reflected in the accompanyingcollection. Noted their author: “Between the men’s and the women’s I love using the same. And making peoples’ eyes see that they work for both a man and a woman.
Especially intriguing—along with the hidden Hector mermaids in the season’s toile de jouy-esque prints and intarsias—were the gentle venturings towards workwear in corduroy patch pocket outerwear and a handsome hickory-meets-pinstripe two-piece with an uncharacteristic deep-pleated pant shape. Ostensibly more Protestant and sober than his recent Cinderella installment, this Browne collection swept you in nonetheless.
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