The enfant terrible chef who changed restaurant culture in the early aughts is all grown up, and the new installment of his Netflix docuseries — a tender tribute to how food shapes and unites us — …
The restlessness that made Chang an excellent chef and restaurateur has made for a more uneven presence in the TV world. In 2012, starring in the first season of the award-winning, Anthony Bourdain-produced PBS series, Chang was boyish and amiably bro-y, eager to show off what he knew. Six years later, he launched his own show on, a meandering exploration of his culinary id.
We spend time here, too, with Chang’s family. In what he knows is a bit of wishful thinking, he attempts to compare what awaits him in parenthood to the stress of running a restaurant. His sister cautions him that his old management style will be of no use: “You cannot yell at a baby. You cannot get mad at a baby.
The third episode, an ode to steak, seems almost grotesque at first when considered against a backdrop of pandemic-mandated asceticism. Chang sits in a dark, wood-paneled room at Beatrice Inn in Manhattan, alongside two food writers and Beatrice chef Angie Mar, all chowing down on a Mastodon-size portion of lavender-infused, dry-aged rib-eye, and confessing that they judge people based on the cut of meat they order and how they like it cooked.
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