Versatile and smoky, these chile-enhanced potatoes can be a side dish or a star

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Versatile and smoky, these chile-enhanced potatoes can be a side dish or a star
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Recipe: Creamy potatoes with a hit of smoke and heat from charred poblano chiles make for a great side dish to accompany roasted chicken or grilled fish and steak.

Creamy potatoes with a hit of smoke and heat from charred poblano chiles make for a great side dish to accompany roasted chicken or grilled fish and steak. As to the charring, the flame over a gas burner is easiest but make sure to open a window for potential smoke. A heavy cast-iron skillet also works or slip the chiles under a broiler until just charred and browned. This twist on papas con rajas can also star as a main in tacos or as an enchilada filling, or as a brunch with eggs and salsa.

• While potatoes are cooking, roast poblanos. The quickest and easiest way, if you have a gas burner: place whole poblanos over open flame and, using metal tongs, carefully and gently turn poblanos every few minutes so that all sides get charred but poblanos don’t get too “cooked” or mushy. This should only take a few minutes.

• While chiles steam, heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large pan and add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to turn golden. Turn off heat and peel poblanos: scrape skins with a serrated knife and remove as much of charred parts as possible. Don’t worry if some of the peel doesn’t come off. Remove stems and seeds, if desired, and slice poblanos into thin strips. Place onions back in pan over medium heat.

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