The challenges are many, says chef Gaushan De Silva of Aragu, an acclaimed restaurant hidden away in the ultra-luxurious Velaa Private Island in the Maldives.
Vivid blue waters and fine white sand. The Maldives, with its stunning vistas and no-expenses-spared resorts, has drawn more than its fair share of island paradise cliches to fill a lifetime of overwrought press releases. And there is no doubt that the best of the Maldives’ 1,190 jewel-like islands are a paradise for anyone looking for that ultimate escape. Unless you’re a serious foodie. Then paradise could use some work.
Hidden away in Velaa Private Island, a breathtaking ultraluxury destination on Noonu Atoll, Aragu has the honour of being the only restaurant in the Maldives to be voted into the extended list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards where it sat at number 96 in 2021. Although it lost its perch, the fact that it even made it there once is itself a feat.
“The main problem we face in the Maldives is logistics,” De Silva explained. Despite a firm relationships with a network of suppliers from France to Japan, customs clearance is the last and longest mile for restaurants like his, so to speak. “I may spend S$7,000 a kilo on black truffles, but when it arrives at Male customs, they may not store it properly. They just leave it in the hot sun for two hours.
“I honestly believe that the best way to mitigate challenges around international supply is to allow yourself to be inspired by what the land and sea give us. While we import a lot of the best ingredients from around the world, we are also dedicated to honouring the produce that Maldives has to offer. Here, we have some of the best seafood, from yellowfin tuna — without a doubt my favourite ingredient — to lobsters and crabs.
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