The split between Eleven Madison Park’s Will Guidara and Daniel Humm marks the end of an era they epitomized
represented a huge marketing coup — butts in seats were never really a problem from EMP, but the top spot would all but guarantee a full dining room for months. Instead of raking in those sweet, sweet reservations from trophy hunters, the pair decided to close the restaurant for a costly renovation, a chance to prove to the world that best could be bettered with enough vision. EMP would drop from No. 1 to No. 4 in 2018. In 2019, a new rule went into effect barring previous No.
As Humm and Guidara’s group expanded, there were signs that the previously unstoppable duo were not invincible. In 2017, they launched their first fast-casual restaurant, Made Nice, and were subsequently. The team reworked the concept, but didn’t open any other locations, as would typically happen with successful a chain-in-waiting. Nomad hotels opened in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, but the former never really captured local diners the way the New York original did.
Together, Humm and Guidara showed how far success in the restaurant world could take a pair of driven, obsessive, unapologetically earnest dreamers. They helped create a vision of the hospitality industry that was both prestigious andinto thinking of restaurant work as a career. EMP’s over-the-top hospitality theatrics, best exemplified by the presence of the on-staff dreamweaver, became the new gold standard for high-end dining.
But even as Humm and Guidara drew people into their vision of what the hospitality industry could be, those lured in tended to look a lot like them. Photo after photo of the EMP kitchen through the years shows a group that mostly looks like Humm and Guidara; young, white men in crisp uniforms ready to demand perfection of themselves. Guests might find themselves having a similar experience when looking around at fellow diners in the dining room.
If there’s one thing about eras ending, it’s that a new one inevitably follows. The end of the Guidara-Humm partnership and the post-recession world of fine dining they best represented coincides with the start of a new decade. There has never been more interest in fine dining in America than there is now, and there are new leaders poised to capture its attention and spirit.
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