Alison Cook review: Primo Hoagies on Washington Avenue

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Alison Cook review: Primo Hoagies on Washington Avenue
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Review: Primo Hoagies on Washington Avenue makes very good to not-so-primo sandwiches

Hubris almost did me in at Primo Hoagies, the new Italian specialty sandwich outpost on Washington Avenue.

Or so I thought. Instead, I worked my way through the two sandwiches with growing dismay. Could they really be this fiercely salty and aggressively hot? Was I a wimp instead of a swaggering, worldly palate? Our local hoagie pickings had been so dismal that I welcomed the advent of the Jersey Mike’s Subs chain here over a decade ago. I fixated on the oil-and-vinegar dressed Number Four, with provolone, prosciuttini and cappacuolo , and when somebody asked me what my favorite chain food was, well — that was it.— the tiny local outfit out of Montgomery and Spring — and swooned over not just the cold Italian subs but the hot ones, as well.

The Nonna’s Veggie hoagie turned out to be a contrapuntal pile of fried eggplant planks and broccoli rabe, set against that edgy sharp Provolone and a fleet of mellow roasted red peppers. The eggplant is good even when it has cooled down , and I’d visit Primo’s for this sandwich, too. That’s how it goes at Primo Hoagies. There are so many options and add-ons, I was constantly gaming out the best way to make the sandwiches work for my palate.

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