Hu tieu lowdown: The Chinese-Vietnamese-Cambodian noodles you need to know better

If I need to quickly describe regional Vietnamese food, I boil it down to three noodle soups: Delicate beef pho reflects the traditional purity of Hanoi and its northern environs, gutsy bun bo channels Hue and central Viet determination, and kaleidoscopic hu tieu conveys Saigon’s progressivism and…

, a noodle salad accompanied by a side of broth. As if that’s not enough variation, you may havewith tender rice noodles, snappy egg noodles or chewy tapioca noodles. The rice noodle size may be small, medium or large; you may combine rice and egg noodles too. And there’s often an option to add pieces of fried Chinese cruller .

Stymied, I asked what he preferred. Try the dry one with small rice noodles and blanched sprouts, he said, and I did. Thewas a tour de force featuring about 10 items, including pork, shrimp, kidney and a roasted duck leg.

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