Wearing only goggle masks, these women dive into the sea to collect sea urchins, fat abalone, turban shells, sea squirt and other delicious marine morsels.
People who know me will tell you that I’m so inactive and inert by nature, I make a sloth look like it’s been crushing Red Bull for days. So, it says something that I didn’t hesitate when the concierge made the offer. After all, it isn’t every day that one gets to hang out with the haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary female divers.
Today, Jeju’s close-knit haenyeo community numbers some 3,200 women scattered along the island’s gorgeous coastline. In Seogwipo, the district where JW Marriott is located, there are around 50 active members, though a generation ago, they numbered 150. “That’s plenty,” I assured her as we padded out across the rocks, she nimbly darting ahead like some marine goat, while I slowly picked my way behind, convinced I was going to slip and break a hip any time soon.
I tried to dive. Which is when I realised that I have no core to speak of. No one tells you that in really salty water, the buoyancy is so strong that you need a strong core to resist the push-back of the sea.
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