A scientist from Kenvue, a spin-off from Johnson & Johnson, answers questions on topical skin vitamins, sulphate-free shampoo, and mouthwash ingredients.
We got a scientist, who leads product development in skin, hair and oral care, to answer your questions on topical skin vitamins , sulphate-free shampoo and body wash, and why alcohol isn't necessary in mouthwashes.
From arbutin to zinc, and all that cetylpyridinium chloride and sodium lauryl sulphate in between, we don’t blame you for thinking you might need a PhD in Chemistry to decipher the ingredient list on your bottle of moisturiser, shampoo or mouthwash. And what about the baffling array of products at the store? Can sulphate-free shampoo and body wash really do the job? It’s enough to make you want to throw your hands up in exasperation in the personal care aisle.ead of R&D APAC at Kenvue, which is a spin-off from Johnson & Johnson, will help you cut through the jargon on skin vitamins, what the alcohol in mouthwash is really for , why the squeaky-clean feel from your shampoo and body wash isn’t great, and more.Cleanser, moisturiser and sunblock will do just fine for most people, said Keshan, unless there is a skin barrier impairment , ageing and/or damage from overexposure to the sun, pollution and climate changes. “When it comes to skincare, more is definitelybetter. Skincare does not have to be complicated to be effective. It is important to maintain a balance of the skin’s pH level.” His tip: Focus on one or two hero products in your routine. “It can be a five-step or three-step regime but the non-negotiables are cleansing, moisturising and sunscreen. If you have a little more bandwidth, throw in a toner or a serum.” I STILL HAVE LEFTOVER PRODUCTS FROM PREVIOUSLY FOLLOWING THE 10-STEP KOREAN SKINCARE ROUTINE. WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO FINISH THEM UP? “The long-term usage of too many mixed products could result in hyper-skin sensitivity and can lead to issue like breakouts and skin irritability like itch and dryness,” said Keshan. If you have plenty of leftover products, try alternating serums and essence, he recommended. “Exfoliating scrubs, peels and pads can be done once or twice a week. Instead of applying a daily sheet mask, use it once or twice a week or alternate with your sleep mask.”WHY ARE ALCOHOL-FREE MOUTHWASHES BETTER? DON’T WE NEED ALCOHOL TO KILL GERMS? If you’ve used an alcohol-based mouthwash before, you’d recall the burning sensation and dry mouth that follow. Not pleasant at all. But did you know that the purpose of alcohol in a mouthwash is not to kill germs in the first place? “Alcohol usually acts as a solvent for dissolving the active ingredients, and to stabilise and preserve the formula,” said Keshan. Besides, you don’t always need alcohol to do that as the many non-alcohol mouthwashes prove. Such mouthwashes use a combination of other ingredients such as emulsifiers and surfactants to completely dissolve the active ingredients, according to Keshan. As for how these non-alcohol mouthwashes take out germs, different brands have different strategies, namely chlorhexidine gluconate , cetylpyridinium chloride and essential oils, he said.“Among the three, only essential oil-based mouthwashes have been recognised by the American Dental Association for efficacy and safety. In addition, essential oil-based mouthwashes have been shown in clinical studies to have no negative effect on saliva production and no feeling of dryness in the mouth by patients.” Also, choose a mouthwash with fluoride to restore enamel, and strengthen teeth against cavities and tooth decay, he advised. I KNOW THAT SULPHATE-FREE SHAMPOOS AND BODY WASHES ARE KINDER TO SKIN BUT I LIKE THE SQUEAKY-CLEAN FEEL. CAN I COMPENSATE WITH A HAIR CONDITIONER AND BODY MOISTURISER? Sulphates such as sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are common degreasers found in many shampoos, facial cleansers and body washes. You’ll know of their addition when the product you use foams a lot. However, “it is a myth to think that more lather gives a more thorough cleanse and this is not true”, said Keshan. “What matters most is that your hair is free from dirt, dead cells and grease .” To be fair, sulphates do remove dirt and oil effectively – but maybe a little too well as they can also leave your scalp and skin irritable, and your hair dry and frizzy. You’re not a burnt, greasy wok that needs intense scrubbing.“Think of washing your hair like washing your face. It is a necessary part of your routine but overdoing it can unintentionally upset your scalp’s natural balance of healthy oils.” So, it is better to not over-cleanse in the first place – and then have to make up for the damage. Moreover, “overusing or not rinsing off hair conditioner well can damage hair”, he warned. How do sulphate-free alternatives do the job then? Their cleaning power comes from essential oils from ingredients such as aloe vera, jojoba oil and coconut oil, said Keshan. “These natural ingredients can remove dirt and grease from your hair just as effectively, and they are much gentler on your skin without stripping away your natural oils. “This is important for individuals with sensitive skin or chronic conditions like eczema,” he said. Even if you have normal skin, it is good to know that “sulphate-free products help maintain the natural pH balance of your skin and scalp to prevent breakouts and blemishes”.I WOULD LIKE TO TRY TOPICAL SKIN VITAMINS BUT THERE ARE SO MANY KINDS. HOW DO I DECIDE?A great anti-ageing combo when used with Vitamin C but do so separately to minimise skin sensitivity. It is also crucial to apply a daily sunscreen and moisturiser as Vitamin A may dry and irritate skin, even when capped at 0.3 per cent in facial products and 0.05 per cent in body products for safety.A potent antioxidant that defends against environmental stressors such as UV and free radical damage. Helps with dull skin, hyperpigmentation and collagen loss.Use in the morning under sunblock and at night . This vitamin is notoriously difficult to stabilise and THD in serums tend to pack the most punch.Use in the morning with sunblock, and at night without alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids as they are said to deactivate Vitamin D.Vitamin E is delivered through oil or as an oil, and can be greasy even on its own. Best to use at night or on the body in our climate. May not be suitable for oily skin.After washing and toning, and before sunblock. The molecule size of HA determines how well absorbed it is by skin. An HA under 500 kDa is the best at penetrating skin.Always follow with a sunblock if used in the morning. Start with once or twice a week, and gradually increase the frequency. Don’t use more than one AHA at a time, or combine with BHA to minimise the risk of skin dryness, irritation and sensitivity.BHA is an oil-based exfoliant and reaches deeper into pores than AHA to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.One way is to look at the product’s pH, said Keshan. “Your skin's natural pH sits at around 4.5 to 5.5, and the order of skincare products should go from the lowest to highest.” For example, acidic products should always be applied before more neutral ones . “Vitamin C, which works at a more acidic level, should be applied before hyaluronic acid, which is formulated over pH 5.” Another way of layering is to take into account the density and absorption rate of the product. “After cleansing and toner, apply serums first followed by gels, lotions or creams. Oils are usually last to apply due to their higher density,” he said. We know it's a hassle to switch browsers but we want your experience with CNA to be fast, secure and the best it can possibly be.
Skin Vitamins Sulphate-Free Shampoo Mouthwash Personal Care Ingredients Kenvue Johnson & Johnson
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